Hot hot hot. The start is frustrating, the Camino is confusing, the heat is challenging.
Camino Day 1 — You Have to Earn It
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📸 Photo of the Day
The real start of the Camino. I left a bit of Angé on the steps.
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🎵 Song of the Day
Sunflower – Neil Diamond (YouTube)
A song for the one who always turned her face to the sun.
“Sunflower, good morning / You sure do make it like a sunny day…”
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📖 The Walk Begins
I set out early, ready to start this journey with my pilgrim passport in hand. Except… the Lisbon Cathedral was closed. Supposed to open at 9:30 — but a new sign said 1pm.
Tourism office? Only opens at 2.
Eventually, after some wandering (and a little grumbling), I found this church — perched high on a hill. Quiet. Modest. Open.
This is where it began.
This is where I got my first stamp.
This is where I left a little bit of Angé.
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I walked alone today.
I listened to A Grief Observed by C.S. Lewis.
It is food for thought.
I started walking at 11. The beginning was glorious — a long stroll along the beach, wind in my face, no crowds. But there were no signs. I got lost more than once, eventually surrendering to my Camino Ninja app, which became my guide out of Lisbon.
The first 8km were stunning — blue water, wide skies, space to breathe. But that gave way to industrial wasteland and dumping grounds. The Camino doesn’t hide anything. It just keeps going.
Around 1pm, I was running out of water. I had expected more water points along the way — there were none.
Thankfully, a small detour into a little town brought me to a humble restaurant that was open. I drank a litre and a half of water, cold drink, and anything cold I could find. And I had a plate of chips — that was lunch. Possibly the best plate of chips I’ve ever had.
It was hot today. 35 degrees and not much shade.
I walked until 3pm, covering 20km in the heat.
Today I could not feel Angé. I remember her, I talk to her but today was different. She is now being carried in my heart but also my conscious.
Then came the blow: the hostel I booked was 5km off the Camino.
I laughed. Then I nearly cried.
But as always, grace showed up.
I found a hotel — with a pool. A small miracle.
Ubered over. Collapsed into the cool water.
That first swim might be the most spiritual moment of the day.
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🪻Sunflower Planting of the Day
No sunflower planted today — not physically.
There wasn’t a single spot along the route that felt right — not one place I felt Angé would be happy with.
But on the steps of that little church on the hill, I left something just as sacred: a part of her, and a quiet promise to keep going.
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💭 Reflections
Today, the Camino reminded me that nothing is handed to you — not the stamps, not the shade, not the right path, not healing, not moving foreward, not forgiving.
You have to walk for it. Sweat for it.
Get lost, and then find your way.
As if the trail itself whispered:
“You want this? Then earn it.”
And I did.
Day 1: 20km.
One stamp.
One sacred beginning.
One very good plate of chips.
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