Day 18: An Angie Day & My Camino
Song of the Day: “Sunshine” by OneRepublic
From Sarria to Santiago, it’s just over 100 kilometers — the magic stretch where so many new pilgrims begin. Today, I stepped straight into that wave of fresh energy. I was out at 6:15 this morning and the trail already felt like a football match — groups of walkers moving together, all full of smiles and excitement.
There’s an unmistakable lightness in the air today. Maybe it’s the weather — a perfect sunny day, warm but not too hot — or maybe it’s the joy of all these first-time pilgrims. I’ve had more conversations than I can count, with people who are bright-eyed and thrilled to be walking. Everyone’s happy, soaking in the sunshine, chatting over coffee at little pubs, and just loving the moment. It’s infectious, and I find myself smiling too.
The trail is busy, but the beauty makes it easy to slow down and take it in. We’re weaving through forests, alongside stone walls, past tiny villages, and from pub to pub. Right now, I’m sitting in the sun with 3.5 kilometers left for the day, looking out over a valley that’s nothing short of spectacular.
Today has also been a day full of Angé. I’ve left Angé for Sunflowers cards at several shrines along the way — little places where pilgrims pause to reflect. I imagine her smiling at these moments, laughing at me taking photos of her if she were here. I passed a stone bench under a tree this morning and pictured her sitting there, giggling as I snapped a photo.
Earlier, I walked past a cemetery lined with flowers, with a bier laid out for a funeral. It felt like another gentle nudge from Angé. Later, I had a conversation with Gunnar, the Swedish priest, and his sister. They lost their brother just six months ago, and we shared our stories of loss — of Angé, cancer, and the Angé for Sunflowers Foundation. It’s strange, but these conversations are becoming easier. I can talk about her now without being completely undone, even if my voice still cracks.
The Camino today is like a moving patchwork of lives. The four Spanish walkers, the brothers walking for their mother, the Australians, Elaine from England, Gunnar, and Birbette — these are the faces I see throughout the day. We greet each other, swap a few words, sometimes share a drink, but I don’t feel the need to form deep bonds. I’m friendly, but I like my space.
I think that’s one of the lessons of this journey: this is my Camino. I’ll walk it my way, at my pace, stopping when I want, moving on when I feel like it — not how anyone else thinks I should walk it. There’s something freeing in that thought.
The conversations today, though, were lovely. So many new pilgrims, so full of energy, made the trail feel alive. But at times, I felt strangely detached, almost like I was walking just outside the crowd, watching rather than joining in. And that’s okay. I don’t have to be part of every group. I can smile, greet, chat — and then step back into my own rhythm.
Less than 100 kilometers remain now. Just four more days to Santiago. It feels both close and far. Part of me is eager to finish, and another part wants to hold onto these moments — the sunshine, the gentle rhythm of walking, the memories of Angé that come alive on days like this.
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